Daryl:
Hi Vlado,
Great website. I'm building a house for myself on a 50*135 lot in Toronto. Likely a similar project to yours. I'm also considering ICF. What would you estimate was the additional construction cost of using ICF over traditional framing. I'm estimating the size of my house to be about 4500sf.
Darryl F.
Vlado:
Hi Darryl,
Thanks. I wish I had more time to put into the website. But, one of our goals was to raise awareness, not a flashy website.
Regarding the difference between traditional framing vs. all-ICF: It has been a while, but from what I remember, ICF added between 4%-7% of the total cost of the project. I have to say that so far we have had no regrets about that decision. And I remember that every time I look at our heating (gas) bill. Compared to the old house, the total gas bill divided per square foot is roughly one half of what it was for the old house. But, to be fair, some of the savings comes from the high-efficiency furnace compared to an old furnace in the old house. Either way, better insulation and better efficiency of the heating/cooling equipment work together to save dollars and the environment. And, looking at recent trends in energy prices, the only question is how much worse it is going to get in how little time.
We wish you all the best with your project. Should you decide to go with ICF, we would like to hear about your experience.
Regards,
Vlado
Daryl:
Thanks for your insight Vlado. Are their an other benefits that you recognize on a day to day basis? Did you have challenges with the design or with trades not being used to ICF?
Vlado:
The house feels a bit quieter, but that could also be just a perception – it is a common sense but I really have no data (measurements, etc.) to back this. We do not see other benefits on a day-to-day basis.
Regarding the design itself, in our case there were no challenges that we could attribute to ICF being used instead of traditional framing.
I was at the site often and I was not made aware nor I noticed ICF-related construction problems worth mentioning. But having that said, I would like to stress that rough interior framing, including how the subfloors are suspended against outer ICF walls, was all done by the ICF trade. Also, It may have made it somewhat out of ordinary for the electrician and the plumber as they could not as easily use exterior walls for plumbing and electrical. The plumber stayed away from ICF and used the interior stud framing for pipes. I liked this as I have never been a fan of placing pipes in exterior walls. The electrician did the same when he could but used a heat gun otherwise, then backfilled the gaps with foam after cables wires were laid.
Darryl:
Sorry to bug you again Vlado, but you seem like a guy that thinks like me. I'm also an engineer. I live on St. Clements Av. and bought a lot for myself on Strathallan Blvd. The lot is 50*135. I figure our houses will end up pretty similar in size, so your #s would be a good indicator for me. Any chance you have a budget together, that I could use to get a sense of what I will be up against. I'm planning on building about 4400sf over 2 floor, and was budgeting about $250/sf. That was based on traditional framing. Any insight from you would help a lot.
Vlado:
Unfortunately, the answer is not straight forward and I certainly do not want throw you off. On the one hand your budget could be very reasonable but on the other hand it could be insufficient. It is really hard to say, because it depends on so many factors. Also, different people have different preferences and consider different things to be of different importance. To illustrate how many and what kinds of things there are to consider, here are just a few not-so-obvious things, in no particular order:
- Tiles in the kitchen or bathroom: marble, travertine or ceramic? Cost varies based on material, and then based on tile format/size.
- If having tile meet hardwood, are the finished elevations/thicknesses close enough not to require raising of the thinner of the two on the entire floor to avoid step-up/step-down?
- Does the design have ground-level walkout or a below-grade garage? If yes, additional requirements might apply to the footing in such areas.
- Hollow or solid doors
- Type and width of trim and cornice molding
- Windows - can vary 2-3 times the basic ones. For example, ours were on the order of ~35K, compared to ~13K for the basic ones.
- Exterior finish: natural stone, engineered stone, stacco, brick or mix - different material and labour costs
- Coffered ceilings - more labour
- Who supplies appliances and bath/faucets i.e. is builder's margin and time included
- Etc.
As you can tell, this goes on and on.
If going with a GC, one possibility is to ask several builders to give you quotes. You can then make adjustments in finishes according to your budget and before you commit to a contract. Unfortunately, this approach does not help you decide whether to build or not as it requires plans to be ready. If you have the plans ready, that would probably imply that you have already paid for the drawings/design. Which in turn probably means that you have already decided to build anyway.
And even when you receive offers, it is good to have some extra room in the budget. There are two reasons for this. One is that the schedule of finishes is seldom that detailed and so things might come up during construction. Another reason is that people often decide to defer certain decisions for later, for whatever reason. Either can cause change in cost, more often an increase then a decrease.
Hope this helps.
Vlado